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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - No spark = No bang

Hi all,
I've been having a really strange one the last two days.
I got the car it's first MOT last Friday and had it tuned. The drive home the car felt great but the Sunday it felt like the car wasn't firing on one cylinder. So I swapped the HT leads and it made a difference but still wasnt right, so I swapped plugs, rotatary arm and diz cap. Then going to leave work after changing the diz cap and condensor within it the car wouldn't start. We have narrowed it down to there being no spark coming from the ignition coil so as you would I grabbed a new one and fitted it but am still not getting a spark from the coil HT lead to the bulkhead... I have even run a separate 12v line to the coil incase there wasn't enough power but its still the same.
Could it be something which I have done in the dizzy cap?
Or does anyone else have any ideas?
C Hammers

Wow, what a lot of swapping you've done.

When you replaced the condenser, did you refit the wires to the right side of the insulator on the points?
Dave O'Neill2

!500 or A series?
Dave Squire (1500)

there’s a diagram that clearly shows the wiring and insulator in the Driver’s Handbook (well there is for the 1275 – you don’t say if you have a 948 /1098 /1275 or 1500)

careful with modern made p[arts, such as –
CB points
rotor arm
condenser
(switches / starter solenoid / indicator flasher units / brake light switches – parts with rubber content, boots, gaiters, etc.)

as they can be poorly made and soon at fault – probably more reliable would be NOS or to buy from a reliable source such as the Distributor Doctor – http://www.distributordoctor.com/

you're better to do step by step problem solving diagnostics before changing any parts
Nigel Atkins

1500 handbook shows clear pics of which way round the LT connectors need to be to not foul the inside of the dizzy and therefore not short when the innards of the dizzy move when rotating. I wouldn't have believed it if it hadn't happened to me.
Dave Squire (1500)

plate movement fouls the delicate wires of igniter heads too causing sometimes unseen problems which disappear when CB points are put back in proving to many that the electronic are unreliable - which they are of course when not fitted properly
Nigel Atkins

Hi all.
It is a 1978 1500 that I am working on.
Unfortunately I cannot find the Haynes manual at the moment(I have an early orange cover edition and a new terqois one and that's the one I cannot find at the moment and the orange edition seems to differ quite a lot in the wiring diagrams!)
Would anyone be able to post a picture of the inside of their distributed so I can try and see any obvious errors I may have made please...
I even had a Green Flag guy looking at it for an hour yesterday but he didn't know much about this older style of engine.
I am really hoping to get it fixes today as otherwise its going to the garage on a recovery vechile which I can't really afford with a wedding using wedding cars tunbridge wells in two weeks!
C Hammers

where in Surrey are you? May well be someone close enough to drop by and assist?
David Smith

As Dave implies with his question, it is almost certain that in changing the condenser you have reconnected the condenser wire incorrectly to the points post. Its not so much a matter of wires fowling the moving parts as is being suggested, although this could now be an additional problem. But you have probably wrongly positioned the insulating spacers that should be isolating the points from the base plate that the points are in effect permanently earthed so you get no spark.

Where the long curved spring from the points is fitted to the post on the baseplate, it needs to be electrically insulated from the post by the nylon spacer/washers. The wires from the condenser and from the connection to the coil need to be in contact with the spring but must be isolated from the post pin and the securing nut (if it has one, some use a clip instead).

You need to correct this first and then you will find out if replacing the condenser has cured the original fault or not. It may still be something quite different.
Guy W

Thanks for the offer but I have sorted it now! It turns out I am an idiot! When I replaced the condenser in the dizzy there is a small metal crip which connects the two wires to the points... I had fitted this upside down so the wires and point was constantly earthed! Muppet! A day and a bit wasted but you learn I guess!

Now back to the original problem which none of my work has solved...

The car seems to intermitaly misfire and will then run properly for a while then do it again... My thought was an ignition issue but I've replaced most of it now!
C Hammers

OK, next diagnosis test then.
Drive the car. When it misfires look to see what the revcounter is doing. If it flickers wildly then the problem is narrowed down to the LT side of the ignition circuitry. (points, coil, ignition switch or any of the connecting wiring) If the rev needle just drops as the engine slows the misfire is either fuel related, or possibly the HT side of the ignition (Plugs, plug leads).
Guy W

see what happens when I don't put the link in :)

the Driver's Handbook is NOT the Haynes with its errors and omissions, no it's the factory Handbook you'd have got with the car when it was new

it contains loads of info including full servicing schedule and how to do the servicing work plus loads more info (including diagram to prevent constant earth)

Ref: 0058 - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html

sample of 1275 contents below



Guy's started you on the diagnostics path, stick with it and you'll get there (might need questions and answers as you go along)


Nigel Atkins

I've taken it out a couple of times now. It's not so much a misfire but more of a loss of power as if the engine isn't firing fully on all cylinders.
It seems to be worse after you've put some power down then let up to change gear but is intermitant... Does this sound like fuelling issues or possibly back pressure?
The rev counter doesn't judder it just struggles to gain any more rpm and when you try and give it more juice it has little effect...
C Hammers

could be either

Guy will be along for the diagnostics to this one problem

(I always sound a bit preachy now with what follows) - I take a different approach I suggest you do a full 36k-mile service/check up as soon as you can after getting the car, in stages if required, details all in the Handbook

this will help find, resolve and prevent problems

if your air filters are full of sh*t, tappets, timing, CB points, plugs, (carb) mixture settings all out or clogged up then the car will run but not well

once the car is fully serviced and frequently run issues like this are usually (but not always) easier to find and resolved (if they've not been spotted or prevented by the full and proper service already)

prevention is better than cure, so it Driver's Handbook for prevention and Haynes for repairs

putting a photo up of your engine bay can help to highlight matters and if you want to you can customize your name and set up your Vehicle profile to also help identify exactly which model and year you have (each time) as although they look the same there are many components parts variations over the years
Nigel Atkins

No pressure there then, Nigel!

Actually I am not able or confident to give a further diagnosis on that information. On the evidence of the rev counter one can say it isn't a LT ignition problem. So had Hammers done that check at the start he could have saved a fair bit of time and cost in not having to randomly change all those ignition items - not to mention creating another fault in the process! Still, a learning experience I suppose!

From the current explanation it does sound like it is fuel related, but it could be something else - faulty HT lead or plug, wrong valve adjustment, wrong timing . . .

Probably best to do a service as Nigel suggests. But if it were my car I think the next thing I would do is to take the plugs out and check the colour is OK and also that it is consitent across all 4 plugs.
Guy W

you're unusually curt there Guy :)

you are of course right but as you know some of those items I'd suggest checking or changing in addition to the 36k-mile service/check up so I think C Hammers hasn't lost out and he doesn't say that the items were new they could be used (or even faulty used parts)

poor quality rotor arm has been know to cause misfire so as it costs nothing and takes no time I'd look at that after the plugs

as you say more info is required and personally as we're all on keyboards rather than standing over the engine I like photos, not that they will necessarily show how to resolve this but it can highlight matters, perhaps help prevent or caution on other matters - or even help with this issue in a small way
Nigel Atkins

Sounds a bit like my problems from my car being laid up for a long time. I have some high priority stuff to do to the car to just keep it running but I have an on going niggle like yours.
As my fuel system is full of crap from over 10 years of none use and I haven't got around to replacing the old pipes and fitting an inline filter, when I do things like fixing a fuel line (January), replacing the pump, (last month), or head gasket like I did last week, I have poor power. This is until one of my carbs clears (usually the back one I reckon as the shook up crap falls out into that float chamber for ingestion into the carb).
I have cleaned the float chambers several times over the last 3 months as it has happened but the short answer for mine is give it a good blast to clear the carb. The long term answer is replace pipes and put in line filter in.

When this happens with mine it revs fine but a bit rough when not in gear and not engaged to drive but as soon as you try to drive in gear there is no power and the revs fall off. Rev counter just follows engine speed. Engine never stops completely and eventually after much revving or resting sorts itself. (presumably the crap goes into the recess in the bottom of float chamber when resting).

Anyway; not saying it is this but sounds a bit like it.
Dave Squire (1500)

Dave,
as you know you're a good example (like most of us at many times) of putting off doing the initial work to spend a lot more time and hassle doing running 'fixes' and sorting the additional problems caused and still have to to the work you should have done at the start :)

but at least you realise it, many don't, and your car keeps going




... mainly to next repair :D
Nigel Atkins

I don't seem to be able to bring my old post out of Archive from just over two weeks ago so here is a link to the original post followed by the post I tried to make:


http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&mode=archiveth&archiveyear=97_2013.dat&access=&subject=97&subjectar=97&source=T&thread=2013042017124414761



I wasn't too worried about swapping the above bits as to be honest the car had mostly original parts in those locations and they would of needed doing in the near future anyhow.

unfortunately I do not have the owners manual. I will pick one up at some point soon.

Ny issue is getting worse now as I have to have the car ready to be used Friday for my wedding so it has gotten to the point of if I don't have a fix tomorrow it will be going to a garage.

So an update of where I am. I have stripped the float chambers today after replacing the gasket on them yesterday the needle was not closing properly and resulted in petrol pouring out of the overflows. Anyhow I clean them up and the needle has some wear marks but still appears to make a good seal when i give it a blow test and the float level was within the 3.2-4.8mm spacing.

Anyhow I have removed the spark plugs to check them now and have three which are a nice golden brown but one is BLACK! now first i thought yes his must be it but then remembered the petrol overflow issue although wouldn't his have caused the pair of plugs that the carb fed to have been blackened rather than just one? The car had run for about 10 miles after the petrol overflowing so would that have cleaned the plug back to a golden colour?
Golden Brown Plug:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/chrisshortys/image-1.jpeg
Black Plug:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/chrisshortys/image-2.jpeg

It does appear to only have the issue whilst under load as if I put the clutch down the revs return to normal...

My game plan for tomorrow is to pop home at lunch, remove the blackened plug and clean it up. Then drive to work and home that evening to see if it ends up black again...

does anyone else have any ideas i can try as I am getting desperate now.

I have attached some pictures as requested.
[http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/chrisshortys/image.jpeg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/chrisshortys/photo.jpg

Thanks,

Chris
C Hammers

Ok it did let me post it just didn't like the image tags i was using!
C Hammers

Chris,
If only one plug was blackened, this as you correctly identify, is unlikely to be related to over-rich fuelling. Was the blackening wet and oily or dry and sooty?

I think your idea of cleaning the plugs and trying them again to see if one goes black again is a good start. But I suggest you keep a note of which plug and which cylinder was blackened, and after cleaning them, put the suspect plug into a different cylinder. That way if the the same plug goes black it is clearly a faulty plug. And if the blackening stays with the same cylinder then the plug is OK and the fault is associated with that cylinder. Probably faulty HT lead or dizzy cap, but possibly valves or rings (much more unlikely)

The other thing to try is to disconnect the HT lead from the suspect cylinder with the engine running. If this makes little or no difference to the running of the engine, then that is the lazy cylinder and confirms where the fault lies.

Oh, and congratulations on the wedding!
Guy W

Thanks Guy, that's a good idea on moving the plug, I shall try that on my lunch break.
It shouldn't be the dizzy cap as I've had two on there now... The HT leads are brand new performance ones so I would hope it wasn't those either... Plugs are brand new also as these are things I've tried changing to resolve the issue... It's always possible one is faulty though from manufacture I suppose!

How big a job would it be if it was the valves or rings?

Before this car I have done very little work with cars so I am having to learn as I go at the moment!

I cannot remember if it was sooty or oily so I will check this at lunch. Would these indicate two different problems?

Thanks,

Chris
C Hammers

the blacken plug (at least) is a BP7, are they not normally BP6 (not that it matters for this)

first MoT, are you running-in the engine or any part of the car at all

(both as background info for Guy)
Nigel Atkins

Well spotted Nigel (wherever you did pick up that info?)
So Chris, if you have one odd plug, then you would expect it to run a different colour wouldn't you?

Chris, a few more tests will narrow down the problem and make it easier to resolve. Do the test as you before planned, but do make sure that the plugs are all the same grade. If you still get a blackened plug then swap it to a different cylinder and retest. Try disconnecting the HT lead with the engine running (use insulated pliers!)to identify if you have a lazy cylinder. All of this will help pin point if one plug, one HT lead or one cylinder is faulty. BTW, when renewing the dizzy cap and HT leads, are the leads plug-in type, or are they ones thet you had to assemble with the screw terminals at the dizzy cap. Are you sure that you made those connection right?
Guy W

sorry Guy (Chris) I've mislead you, my poor explaining again

I noted that the black plug is BP7 from this photo but I don't know that it's an odd one out, the others might be BP7 too and TBH I assumed they were (perhaps wrongly?)

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/chrisshortys/image-2.jpeg
Nigel Atkins

1978 1500 so push on HT leads and anyway there's a photo of some thick new leads

black plug looks to me sooty at spark and possibly oily at base, soot should get blow off in another cylinder
Nigel Atkins

Hi guys, thanks for your replies.

The plugs are all matching and yes you are correct thy are not standard plugs but ones that moss sell as fast road plugs. I fitted these when I believed the issue to be on the ignition side to give it a bigger zap.

Ok so I swapped the plug for a known working and ran the engine. And the plug is covered in a black oily/petrolly mix. I checked this a couple of times.

I have rechecked the tappets and they seem fine... Every thing seems to move and doesn't appear to have seized...

I am getting ahold of a compression tester tonight and praying that everything appears ok on that test....

I tried removing the ht lead and it appears to make it run worse with a lot more pops for lack of a better word...

I'm at a loss now. Anymore ideas from anyone?

Thanks,

Chris
C Hammers

er, the plugs don't exactly work that way, if you have a standard engine you'd be better going back to standard plugs

set/check tappets, CB points/plugs, timing and mixture in that order

the rest is with Guy
Nigel Atkins

Sorry Nigel, l am following this on a mobile phone so not looked at the photos as they are too small to make out anything on a 2" screen!

Chris if disconnecting the plug lead makes it run worse then you know that particular cylinder is at the least firing ok at low revs as it is contributing to the engine power.

And Moss are having you on if they said the plugs were going to give the car more power. What they should have explained is that "fast road plugs" are for engines already designed for more power (cams, compression, valves etc) in which case those plugs might help with a hotter running engine. Putting them in a standard engine they are likely to oil up and misfire. And once oiled up, likely to make starting harder as well.
Guy W

i would tend to agree with Nigel on this one... go back to the normal plugs. If Moss describe them as fast road plugs then i assume (not yet looked at the moss site to check) that they would be made for a higher temperature and so run colder, which could cause problems with oiling up...

(ive just been investigating plugs myself today so have been through the NGK online course, worth a look if you have time)
Andy Phillips (frankenfrog)

Ok, I shall stick the old plugs in before I compression test tonight then... Learning curve is ramping up now!

Anything else to look at?
C Hammers

Would timing and mixture cause these symptoms? If so what's the best way to check these.
Also there is deffinetly no smoke from the exhaust other than usual colouring
C Hammers

If there is no blue smoke out the exhaust... id say its your plugs...for no more then they cost...id just buy new

But yes... the proper temp plug is a big deal

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

And so the saga continues!
I went to
My local specialist who let me borrow their compression gauge, when I got this home I found the screw thread was so overused it wouldn't seal fully... I then remembered I had found something that looked very similar when I started work on the car. I dug this out and was amazed it was there still but this was a push on rubber ended one.... So as I pushed and held it as my dad turned it over I managed to touch something on the ignition and got zapped as the car was turned over making me drop the thin which broke!!! :@
Anyway I got ahold of my uncle and he managed to dig one out and finally I managed to make some measurements!
I still have a issue that I can't screw on to the opening for spark plug as the alternator gets in the way of the compression gauge thread. I ended up having to hold that one as best as I could and screw the others in.
They read around the following:
1- 120
2- 140
3- 130
4- 140
As I said I'm pretty sure number one was higher but I couldn't hold it.

I've also put normal plugs in but it had no effect.

The car is no longer idealing very well and continues to rev roughly when your driving and put your foot on the clutch... There is a little white smoke from the exhaust when you blip the accelerator...
C Hammers

That sucks...the compression looks good

But the NOW white smoke is a bit of a concern..any chance its just condensation being burnt off

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Its starting to sound like a vacume leak....you said the needle on the tach was not jumping around... you got new plugs and plug wires...so its probably not electrical

You have good compression

Try this...

1.with it super dark ...start the car and look for a blue electric light show at various revs... I doulbt you will see one, if you do then there you go

2. Warm upbthe engine.. spray some starter fluid or wd40 round the intake and carbs and vacume hoses evac system dissy tube ect ect and listen to the engine... if it speeds up... then you have found a vacume leak

Retorque the cly head and use rule of 9 to recheck your valve clearances

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Oh... I just had a thought... I dont know how to test for it


What about a worn fuel pump... on a 1500 it is mechanical, not electric

It could be the fuel pump arm or camshaft lobe it rides on is wearing out...if it were worn ...I may be to the point that its just providing enough fuel pressure at low speeds to run but not enough at higher revs...thus starving for fuel...giving the appearance of a vacume Leak

C hammers did say all the parts are orginal and are wearing out so that would put the pump at 35 years old... provvided its never been replaced

Any ideas on how to test a mechanical 1500 fuel pump or how to redneck engineer a solution to make the pump work before this friday


Worst case senerio ... make the groomsman push the car from.a block away to.the wedding and agian after words to another car a blick away... you can make the brides maids make egine noises with there lips as you coast along

Its not mean... there going to doctor the car with "just married" ragialia so hay... why not make them earn it....hahaha
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Brrrm, brrmmm, brrrmm!

Good idea Prop - I mean about the fuel pump!

I had a 1500 fuel pump where the neoprene/rubber diaphragm inside the top cover had split. The car ran fine at low revs but when either more revs or more power was needed on a hill, it would misfire and refuse to pull until the engine speed was allowed to drop again and the throttle eased off. Eventually it refused to go up a long hill (I was on a longish trip). I found the problem and did a temporary roadside fix with a piece of plastic bag - got it going again and lasted for the remaining 500 miles or so of the trip.

At low revs it was fine, the split diaphragm still provided enough pressure to keep the carbs filled, but at higher speeds it just couldn't keep up. It was also a fault that appeared suddenly, not as a gentle deterioration, so was clearly not something slowly wearing out or going out of tune.
Guy W

Funnily enough the fuel pump was swapped when I first began working on the car last yearish... It's also a sealed unit! I have found a garage in the area who will have time this afternoon to have a look so am planning on admitting defeat and running it up at lunch time.
C Hammers

The one I had wasn't fully sealed. The top was held by a single screw IIRC and undoing that revealed the circular rubber diaphragm, + split!.

When you swapped the pump, was it the correct replacement? There are 2 versions with different lengths of lever arms. One is used with a phenolic spacer, the other shorter armed one without. But if that was the problem, then you would have had the engine fault ever since doing the fuel pump swap.
Guy W

I'm guessing the garage might find there is more than one fault or one effecting another

Chris,
if you don't want to fair enough - but you've had long enough now to send off for that Driver's Handbook (other supplier's are available) as it would answer a couple of your recent questions and you'd learn a lot about your car and how to actually work items (some of the information not given in Haynes), the servicing schedule and how to do the work, get the book it will help you as, no disrespected intended, you're nearer the start of the learning curve so don't know to start with the basics before moving on

we all had to learn, none of us was born knowing (personally I've progressed very little and keeping forgetting the little I did know anyway)
Nigel Atkins

Could it be the head gasket failing? It's common after an engine's been sitting for a while, and would explain the rough running when warmed up and the puff of white out the exhaust. The compression figures look ok, but they sometimes do in the early stages.

That said... do a decent tune up to eliminate everything else, like everyone's said. Good work so far!
Growler

Growler....

Thats my fear as well... I didnt want to say much untill everything else has been exhausted...for fear it would end up being a red harring and time/money waster....but there is enough allegorical observation to rule out a head gasket....condenstation in the exhaust this time of year, good compression numbers...no loss of coolant ect ect ...so I really wanted to keep him on track diagnosing everything out to a proper conclusion

The good news is the car should be at the shop by now, so whould should be hearing something soon

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

So any word as to what the shop Says

Today is the wedding day ... I belive

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Thanks everyone for their help. The car came out of the garage at 6pm the night before and I was outside washing and polishing with my best man until about 10pm!
I will reveal the multiple issues later when I get a chance to site down but thought I would say a quick thank you and post a picture I snapped on my phone!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f323/chrisshortys/9099D073-6CF7-48AC-90C3-456C1C948051-1230-000000C14C1BA7C7.jpg

Thanks again to everyone for their help!
C Hammers

Ok so the full story... Tuesday evening we ended up putting the timing forward by about 10degs to make the car run able to the garage and the drive to there Wednesday felt like one hell of a long drive for about 5 miles!
I had put the original standard plugs in as suggested on here but it still ran horribly. Anyway Wednesday evening I spoke to them and the car had been spewing out 9% co2 on the emissions and the timing was at 47deg!
They swapped the plugs for a new set of standards and this helped a bit before adjusting the timing. The Thursday they stripped down the carbs and found a lot of rust that had been dragged through the pipes. I had flushed the tank but was told that these style have a tendancy to rust and flake internally by the garage.
They have found a worn needle and injector in the front carb which I will sort next month.
They then re ran compression tests and found all the cylinders here within 5 psi of each other but did not mention the psi to me.
At this point they retuned the car a few times but it ran ok for a few minutes ach time before returning to run like crap. This was about 4pm Thursday as I was on the phone and the guy was near to giving up but had ordered a new condenser not expecting it to make a difference. Anyway he fitted it and it solved the issue... So all the work ended up being down to rust in the carbs, wrong advise on updated the plugs and a dodgey new condenser I had brought from Moss!
There is still a small oil leak in cylinder 2 but they have advised me not to worry about this until it gets worse as the oil won't do any real damage.
Driving the car to and from our wedding it ran like a dream with loads of power. Twice I think on the way and a couple of times on the way back I lost a bit of power which corrected itself if I took my foot of the accelerator pedal for a moment. I could then put my foot down and it was good as new so I am thinking some crud is still in the carbs. So new plan is to fit a fuel filter before I run the car again, and then do the work on the carbs!

Thanks to everyone for all their help!
C Hammers

Well, there you go Shorty.

Its always the condenser!

Problem is, now you are married you won't be able to afford a new condenser. Or anything else car related. And you better delete those other photos before SHE finds them!
Guy W

didn't realise it was your wedding, congratulations

great the car is running, see my first post as to modern parts -

>>careful with modern made p[arts, such as –
CB points
rotor arm
condenser
(switches / starter solenoid / indicator flasher units / brake light switches – parts with rubber content, boots, gaiters, etc.)

as they can be poorly made and soon at fault – probably more reliable would be NOS or to buy from a reliable source such as the Distributor Doctor – http://www.distributordoctor.com/ <<

I've never seen why condensers and CB points are sold as part of a service package of parts as you'll see from the Driver's Handbook their replacement is not part of the servicing schedule

note those other parts I've mentioned because modern made ones do play up including rubber that wont last 6 months of fitting let alone use - I only buy modern unleaded metric rubber fuel hose as I've had so many leaks from various stocks of the 1/4"

as well as new parts being faulty as you've learnt also don’t assume the parts or components fitted to your car are the original or correct type or that they are fitted or working correctly

many problems can be solved by cleaning and/or lubricating parts and components – many elements of servicing, maintenance and repair can be basically cleaning and/or lubricating
Nigel Atkins

Hi Chris
Congratulations on your wedding and glad you got the car working in time.

i have rust in my tank, i have tried to clean it out twice already , i fitted a nice big fuel filter right next to the tank outlet, replaced the fuel line with a rubber one i bought from the motor factors (they just had it on a reel) and also put a small transparent filter just before the carbs.
ive had no trouble since but can see particles of dirt accumulating in the filter at the tank
Andy Phillips (frankenfrog)

Congrats on both marriage and the midget

I wouldnt worry about.fixing the midget.. she (the wife) already has designs on helping you to get rid of the midgdt...the guys car is always the 1st to go when the wife clips her new husbands wings

That said... I use 2 fuel filters before the carbs... a big pourse one to catch the big stuff and a small One for the fine stuff. Both about a foot a way...both clear

The problem with just one do it all filter ... it clogs to fast and it dosnt pass enough fuel quickly IF YOUR gas tank is in bad shape

I like 2 filter method because there is no such thing as a perfectly clean carb, and clean carbs are a must for a good running car

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

This thread was discussed between 20/04/2013 and 13/05/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.