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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - LED dashboard bulbs

With the darker nights now here I'd forgotten how poor the dash instrument lighting is.
Mine are capless T10 and I'm considering the green version from Classic Car LEDs.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/glb501-t10-led-capless-wedge-bulbs-sidelight-number-plate-interior-various-colours?variant=8318823399519

Has anyone experience of green led lit instruments or should I stick with warm white?

Thanks.
Jeremy MkIII

Jeremy, have you considered red? Red doesn't interfere with your night vision, which is why nighttime bridge lighting on ships is red.
Just a thought...
Greybeard

Hi,

I went with ice white and was very happy with the results. They're not actually too bright in the dark.

I got mine from Classic Car LEDs. Being working fine for a while now.


James Paul

Cheers Grey,
interesting about ship bridge lighting. Years ago I remember reading that the Luftwaffe used red instrument back lighting whilst our RAF boys used green.
My wife's former Polo had red lit instruments whilst my Dad's P6 Rover were green. They seemed easier on the eye.

Thanks James, I was concerned the 'full' white might be too bright but it seems not - like you coloured coded dashboard.
Jeremy MkIII

red or green instruments lights, never knerw there was a difference between Brittish cars and German.
My 75 midget has warm white light but my 78 jaguar has green light instruments.
Years after the war the difference in light colour goes on... :)
Not very helpfull for collourblind people?

James, I too swapped to that bright collor like yours but since a year or 2 ago im back to "warm white" again.

A de Best

So are you all using adapters to convert to wedge type bulbs. My current Midget came with screw in capped LEDs which are a pain because you have to grip the cap to install or remove them - they just fall apart with the twisting action
S Macfarlane

S
mine's a replacement loom so came with capless type connections.
Are you using leds from Classic Car Leds?
Jeremy MkIII

you can get capless wedge type (T10) or capless screw in (E10) bulbs - not related to the connector type on the loom.
regardless - if you have screw in connectors then both the cap and capless E10 type bulbs will fall apart (in my experience) as you have to grip the top part of the bulb in order to screw it in, and they are both very fragile when twisted in this way
Think ill have to change to the wedge type holders - i assume they are the rubber ones widely available on ebay - requiring a dedicated earth in addition to the live feed.


S Macfarlane

Do not change the ‘charging’ bulb to LED.
Alan Anstead

S,
Well, you learn something new every day. Didn't know you could get capless screw type bulbs - thought it was either the push type or screw fitting.
The connectors on mine are plastic and have two wires, so if the adaptors are rubber, then yes I think you will need a separate earth as you won't be able to rely on earthing through the instrument body.
Before you go the adaptor route it may be worthwhile having a chat with the chap at Classic Car Leds as he must have experience of the issue you are having and may be able to advise.
Jeremy MkIII

Thanks. Will do
S Macfarlane

This thread was discussed between 06/11/2024 and 14/11/2024

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.