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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Gearbox compatabillity

Hi
Can any confirm which if any other gearboxes would be compatable with my 1098cc engine as these boxes seem to be scarce, unless some one has one lying around near the leicestershire area.
a ward

As far as I know the gearbox from the 1275 is compatible, from the Haynes manual all the gear ratios are the same with the exception of reverse....

I fitted one to my MKII last year as the original was jumping out of 2nd

Tony
Tony Brough

Thanks tony
a ward

Another query..............
would i need a differant clutch too.......???

a ward

Ash?

No the clutch is the same. What is wrong with your current box? I have little experience working on them but there are loads of people on here who will be able to help.
Tony Brough

I garaged the car up at the end of last year as on the way home i lost 1st and reverse gears, just tried to move it out this weekend and cant select any geras at all. was not sure weather it would be the box or the clutch. But was thinking as I will have to have the whole lot out I may as well do it all.
a ward

Has anybody got info/instructions etc on Toyota to MG midget conversion??
I have Toyota gearbox, Adaptor plate, Bell housing and prop shaft.

Have built up a hot engine with lightweight flywheel and AP competion cover plate and clutch.
I assume I need toyota clutch plate to suit gearbox splines, and I've heard IO need Toyoto slave cylinder but assumed if ity has adaptor bell housing this would carry midget slave.

Any info appreciated as I would like nice modern box!!

Richard Croft
R Croft

Richard
- IF I remember correctly, Toyota box conversions were very popular in the '90s with the box being so good it was also used on V8 B conversions

So there should be loads of info, somewhere, unless I'm wrong, again

That's as much as I know
Nigel Atkins

Didn't you believe me on the MGCC website Richard?
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Just searching for the plate number and supplier. A couple of posters here know and will chip in I hope before I find it.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Richard, I have a T50 Toyota box mated to a 1430 engine in a Frogeye. I bought a new centreplate this year via an AP Racing distributor. Part no is CP2323-11, spec is 6.5" x 21spline to suit T50 box. Engine is circa 100/110 bhp 'ish', Frontline end plate, bell housing is integral to box and uses the Toyota slave cylinder/clutch fork set up. I am in Milnrow, (J21 M62), will e-mail you my details if you want to have a look at my set up.
Peter
PJ HOBSON

Of course I did Bob, but I'm groping in the dark here. I had seen on early web sites people were sending copies of ariginal fitting instructions. I don't want a midget on the drive with an engine hung on a hoist while I spend days measuring up a new set of mounts and getting them fabricated, I'd like to plan it, get the pieces and fit them.
R Croft

Richard,

I have scanned copies of the original fitting instructions for the T50 to A-Series conversion. It uses a special bell housing and standard A-Series clutch operation - either hydraulic for Midgets etc., or mechanical for the Minor.

If you would like copies, please email me at richardl.wale at BTinternet dot com.

What clutch are you using? If you are using a 1275 diaphragm clutch the driven plate is as Peter says, the AP Racing part number CP2323-11, but if you want to fit the T50 to a 1098, the clutch plate is unique to that flywheel. They used to be available from Minor Mania in Mill Hill, but I don't have any information about current suppliers.

It's a superb conversion - I have one on the back of the 1380 in our Minor.

Richard
Richard Wale

Richard
I have a T50 also, converted in the same Peter describes; using the the Toyota bellhousing and a converter back plate and so using the toyota slave cyl. I have some drawings of the crossmember I used if you need copies I can send. I am using the APR driven plate as posted by Richard and Peter.

Its an excellent conversion but you need to be sure your gearbox is in serviceable condition as its fairly difficult and expensive to get parts for, but it can be done.

Ian
Ian Webb '73 GAN5

Richard

There were a number of different Toyota boxes used in conversions, so make sure you positively identify what you have before leaping in or you may end up with the scenario you are trying to avoid.
Paul Walbran

If it's the Toyota T50 gearbox (split alloy case, sourced from corollas/celicas) then I did this conversion using a replacement adaptor bellhousing, sourced from Dellows here in Australia. It used the Midget slave and clutch fork arrangement, though both the bellhousing and bracket for the clutch fork needed some grinding for clearance so that they worked correctly. The work to fit was basically as follows: The original crossmember needs to be cut out and a new one fabricated, lower and further to the rear of the car. If you want to be able to remove and install the engine and box as a unit rather than seperately then you will need to cut out some of the floor underneath the box as well. I just cut my crossmember down to level with the floor but didn't cut out any of the floor, so even with the front panels removed from the car the engine and gearbox must be fitted seperately. My crossmember is made up of 4mm? plate, and is comprised of 2 box sections that fit snugly inside the cut off ends of the original crossmember and have captive nuts so they are bolted into place from underneath the car. From these I have 2 side plates welded on that follow the sides of the tunnel, and a floor piece that sits on the floor of the tunnel. Then I have a crossmember made up that follows the shape of the Toyota gearbox mount in the correct location a few inches back from the original. This has crush tubes in it, and the mount is bolted in from underneath. I have seen many other ways of doing the mounts, but I am very happy with mine as it puts the strength of the original crossmember back into the car and retains a stock appearance and functionality. The crossmember is not removeable once it has been finally welded in place. I had to grind off some small amounts of the gearbox casing in a few places for additional clearance, and the tunnel had to be jacked out wider. I cut a small corner off the slave cylinder to allow more clearance to the chassis rail. If you have the right extension housing (Corolla I believe) then it can be shortened to make use of the original hole and 'metal can' gearlever surround. Personally I left the box standard as I found it a more comfortable position, just very slightly rearward of standard, the hole needed extending slightly and I made up a cover for the hole that contained captive nuts to take an mgb gearlever boot and surround. I also shortened the gear lever by removing the larger end part of it, it is only bonded on by rubber and with it removed the gear lever is a very nice stubby length. As you might be beginning to understand, this is a large job that requires a lot of trial and error, not something that you can really have everything prepared for before you start. As for the clutch, yes you will need a clutch plate to suit the Toyota gearbox spline. As I am planning to supercharge the car, I went to a Hillman pressure plate with a Toyota (Corolla? Can't remember) clutch plate. If you retain the standard clutch then the plate is as posted above.

If however you are talking about the Toyota Starlet box then I am told that is a much simpler conversion that does not require cutting of the original crossmember. I have no experience of this conversion myself though, as these gearboxes are not available in Australia.
AndrewF

That's correct, the Starlet box doesn't rewuire any body surgery.
It is a tight fit slotting the engine in though. In the one of ours with the Starlet box I haven't found a way round having to remove the crank pulley to get past the shut panel on the way in.
Paul Walbran

Thanks guys, this is really helpfull. I now need to identify exactly what box it is.
I've emailed Richard Web for instructions, If Ian Webb could email me I can arrange to get copies of his cross member.
That will be a start, then as you guys tell me, it could be a long summer of trial and error. At least I run a one piece fibre glass front end so I can get good accesability

Richard Croft
R Croft

Richard,

The Toyota Starlet (K50) box looks like this:


AndrewF

The T50 looks like this, although there is another extension housing the puts the gearlever on an angle. The extension housing shown is the Corolla (I believe) which is longer but can be shortened if you desire. The other one places the gearlever on an angle and is much shorter - with some gear lever bending it should work but it comes up short of the standard hole with a straight lever (I had both to try with my box):


AndrewF

My crossmember, to mount the t50 box, before it was finally mounted and welded into the car. This view is from the front, as you would see it from the engine bay, though of course the side sections would be out of sight inside the cut off ends of the original crossmember:


AndrewF

From behind. The cut out on the drivers side is to allow access to the speedo cable.


AndrewF

And from underneath. The washers are to ensure the floor is hard against the crossmember where the bolts go through, to avoid the floor being bent. You can maybe just see the tubes inside the crossmember that the bolts go through to bolt in the mount - they ensure that the crossmember plates are not under bending forces - probably unnecessary overkill given the thickness of plate that I used for everything. You can also see the captive nuts in the side sections that slide inside the ends of the original crossmember.


AndrewF

Richard
I now have some photocopies of my crossmember drawings, email me your postal address and I will post them soonest:

ian dot webb57 at hotmail dot com

Ian
Ian Webb '73 GAN5

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2011 and 12/05/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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