MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Front spring removal - eazy peazy

I bought some new front springs at midget50. I looked at the Archives for methods of removing/refitting. A lot of people recommended undoing the top trunnion and many complained of the time taken to use the long-bolt method. Well, I went down the long bolt (2 x 6inch M8 bolts) and I removed both springs in about 15 minutes max!! Why would anyone want to dismantle their front suspension (trunnion, anti-roll bar, relase brake caliper, release track rod ends etc) when there is such a simple and quick method available.

Chris
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Its Horses for courses Chris.
If you are dismantling the front suspension anyway, why would anyone want to mess around with long bolts through the spring pan?
I have used both methods, depending on what else is or is not being done. Both are pretty quick!
Guy

A jack, small block of wood and an impact gun

<5mins - but loss of fingers is likely unless you have the reactions of a pussy cat...

Still fun though
PeterJMoore

Peter, Peter, Peter... tut tut. :-)

I usually use the long bolt routine, preferring to let off any and all spring pressure before undoing the upper trunnion. I know it's "safe" to lower the A-arm slowly with the spring in there, but the idea makes me uneasy. I don't mind letting out the occasional blood, but pooping myself at Loud Noises is something I try to avoid.

There are also odd little issues such as the fact that with a jackstand under the opposite chassis rail, the car will rock to the other side when you jack up on an arm, with the rail acting as a fulcrum... rocking sufficiently that you can't raise the arm enough to insert a block between the shock lever and the bump stop to permit letting the spring out. You need to support the other side via the wheel or hub so more weight is being applied to the suspension on the side you're trying to jack.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

As long as the engine is still in, a bottle jack tucked into the top hat part of the spring seat seems perfectly safe to me ... and you can always use a couple of long bolts as a long-stop (I tend to be fairly 'pussy' about these things!). IIRC there isn't a big SPROINGGGG! as you undo the bolts.

Tom
Tom Coulthard

Refitting is jacking up the spring plate until the moment just before the car lifts, then wang in two long bolts and buzz it all in whilst pry-bar on the spring to prevent it from catching on the wishbone as it bends into place

Have seen wishbones with the bolts tacked into place so removal only involves being under the arm, did make life harder when lining up and refitting spring though.

Brute force and ignorance tend to prevail when it comes to springs.

Did shock myself once though, having been used to honda shock/spring combo, with very little preload, you could happily and safely undo the top mount by hand - vauxhalls on the other hand, well, the dent in the workshop wall and my thumb feeling like it had been ripped off was testament to why spring compressors were invented :P You live and learn
PeterJMoore

Does the long bolt method work if you have the frontline front suspension kit? It seems to me the lower shock absorber mount would stop the spring coming out.

Graeme
graeme jackson

as a matter of inteest has anyone ever tried a series of cable ties on the coils with the spring under compression and then just undone the top trunnion having let the wishbone down?
Would the ties be strong enough and would there have been enough compression in the spring to pull it free?
Matt1275Bucks

Matt; Don't use cable ties, there's a clue in their name. There's a reason why spring compressors are made out of steel...
David Cox

I agree with Gryf and also use the long bolt method. I've even made up a set of special bolts for the job along with a special deep socket so that I can use my air ratchet.


B Young

With spacer blocks and lowered springs you can just pull the springs out and push them back in by hand, with the car fully raised there is no compression in them at all
S G Macfarlane

Hose clips can be used to compress front springs (to lower the car). Cable ties are not strong enough.
BH Harvey

Make sure they're good hose clamps, though... I've had the screw type slip in the past. But maybe they were just cheap.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

You need to bend the ends over if they slip. this way they should hold for ages.
BH Harvey

Hmm... I'm a 'let the spring-pan down with a trolley jack' person; the 'jubilee clip' method could be dangerous... depending on the amount of compessing they are asked to do... caveat mechanic.

A
Anthony Cutler

This thread was discussed between 20/06/2011 and 22/06/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.