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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Fitting a new hood

I've got a new hood to fit before Spridget 50, and I have all the instructions, but I'd appreciate any useful tips anyone might have.

I'm sure those of you who have done it before must have learned a few tips on the way.

FYI, it's an early Mk3 midget, so the hood is permanently fixed to the back with screws, and there is an additional tenax fastner just behind the side window that wasn't there on later cars.

Cheers,

Nigel
N K Baker

measure twice and cut once! MANY years since I first fitted a hood but I do remember that because I cut the top a little short the necessary stretching to clip it shut elongated the stitching holes above the window...with inevitable consequences!
dave c

Nigel - I did receive your email. Been a hectic weekend, but normality is returning. Will fish out the article for you this evening.

Steve
Steve Clark

Nigel, it may be a little difficult to find, but I posted a pretty detailed description of the process several years back, probably around 1999 or so. The main thing is to make sure you start with the hood centered well on the body and not pulled too far to the rear. Work from the rear center where it attaches to the cockpit rail to each side and then to the header. I found that using some masking tape where the hood was wrapped over the header allowed me to pull it tight from inside the car and mark the point where the front edge of the header was, then I could release the tension, partially fold the frame and use those marks to align the hood when I riveted the seal strip and glued the hood material to the header.
Bill Young

Hi Nigel, my tips are: choose a warm day or carry out job in heated area, Evostick Timebond contact adhesive gives you some time to move the hood around on the header rail once attached and a couple of small nuts behind the pop rivets to allow the rivet gun to clear the header rail seal mount (I bent my first one!!).
Simon.
S McGregor

Another thing to remember - at the front corners, there are little fabric "pockets" that are meant to fit over the ends of the header rail. Not only do they hide the metal ends of the rail, they also take some of the tension and prevent the fabric from ripping inwards, along the front edge of the header. My car's PO had fitted the top incorrectly, ignoring the pockets and leaving the header ends exposed, and the material eventually ripped as described.

Another suggestion would be to use short countersunk sheet metal screws to affix the fabric to the header through the seal channel, vs. pop rivets. I was actually thankful that my car's PO had done that. It makes it much easier if you need to adjust top fitment later.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Thanks all (got your email, Steve).

Also managed to derive from the threads that there was a how to in Practical Classics a couple of years ago, which I have tracked down and ordered.

It seems to be a slightly more involved job than I had originally thought, so will wait till some clear time is available to sort it. Hope to do it in the next two months, though!

Cheers,

Nigel
N K Baker

I bought a new hood from Prestige this month, vinyl with zip out rear window.

It is a very well made hood, it came with all the parts needed for installation and even had the tenax fastener holes precut.

A friend and I installed it last Sunday, outside in about 50F weather.

A circlip tool is perfect for tightening the bottom side of the tenax fasteners.

The hood fit tightly but as I said it wasn't a warm day.

My advice:
Be methodical, make sure you have it marked right before you start putting holes in it. If possible find someone in your local MG club with experience who would like to spend quality time with you and your new hood.

I like the idea of fastening the front with screws so you can take it apart more easily if you make a mistake. Since there were two of us doing it we used rivets. My header already had a small hole drilled in one end so I shook out the old rivets.

Be prepared for the header rail to be rusty, mine was, I wire wheeled it and hit it with some spray paint. Also the back of the tub where the fasteners go through had rust. Again wire wheel and paint.

You may want to get a new rubber seal for the front, mine was pretty badly worn but I didn't have a replacement.

Otherwise it was very straightforward. This was my first hood replacement so I was grateful to have someone with experience help me.
Rick Bastedo

When I replaced the hood (or "top" as we say in the Colonies) on my '67 Sprite a few years back, I found these tips to be a helpful supplement to the instructions:

http://www.motorheadltd.com/convertible.html

John

Rick,
I just ordered a Prestige top with the zip out widow. Thanks for the guidance tips. Yours came with everything but the front seal? I think Moss sells those, I will need to get one for my old one is dry rotted and cracked. I also have an experienced friend that will help me.
Rik
1979 Midget
Rik Hogan

Yes, everything but the front seal. I think you'll be happy with that Prestige top - I am.

I did not put the fasteners (snaps) on the front flaps, the ones that are inside the windows when they are rolled up.

I've been known to release the front & start pulling the hood back before unfastening those flaps, this causes tearing of the seams. No fasteners = no tearing.
Rick Bastedo

This thread was discussed between 18/03/2008 and 21/03/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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