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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - CLUTCH BLEED METHOD (NEW) ?

First, Happy New Year All and thanks to all for all your valuable info.

I tried and tried to get the air out of my 76 midget clutch system but nothing seemed to work. It seemed that the air would get trapped in the master at the end where the fluid comes out. So....I took a method offered by Prof (I think) that involved a 10 foot length of tubing. First I put teflon tape on the threads of the slave cylinder bleeder fitting to make sure it would not leak. Next I filled a 10 foot 1/4 inch diameter clear plastic tube with brake fluid and put it on the bleeder nipple, keeping the other end blocked to avoid spillage. I then drained and disconnected the clutch master cylinder (but keeping the hydraulics connected) and tilted it so that the cylinder was tilted up and not down in its normal position. I then opened up the bleeder valve on the slave 1 turn and removed the cap on my plastic bleed line, keeping it high so that the fluid would back flow into the system. The fluid then flows out of the plastic tube into the slave, then through the slave line into the master cylinder and removes any air with it. It worked great and I now have a good clutch. You might call it the "LCEZBM". (Low cost EZBleed method). I tried it first without tilting the clutch master but air remained somewhere in the master that appeared when I pushed the clutch in. Hopefully this will someone else. Now onwards to my brakes ....AL

It has been a while since I've had a '76, but I recall problems with bleeding the clutch also. An air bubble would always appear in the red tube. I tried holding it down with some success. My solution was to use a vacuum pump and a one way bleed screw on the slave. It worked for me. This works on the brakes also.
J Bubela

I got frustrated with my clutch bleeding & purchased an EZ Bleeder...worked like a charm, but expensive!

Al, I like your idea!

I wonder if you couldn't use a mustard or ketchup squeeze bottle (also low cost) at the end of you 1/4 inch tube & force the fliud/air back through without taking the master cyliner loose?

Just a thought...

Dave Rhine

This thread was discussed on 01/01/2010

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