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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brakes on the 1500

Hi,

I've finally sorted out my engine problems (vibration = new head gasket!).

How I getting ready for the MOT. The brakes aren't too good, but after 10 yrs driving a car with ABS, servos a and disks all round this is probably normal. Are there any beneficial modifications which can be made to improve the braking for use in modern day traffic? Last year I was following the golden 6 second rule (say 6 seconds from the car in front).

And thanks to all who helped with the vibration and cylinder head questions I've been asking - I learn't a lot.

Cheers
Mat
M Andrews

Mat -

Firstly, just check the rear brakes for proper adjustment. This can make a difference in pedal feel and overall brake effectiveness.

While you're back there, pull each drum and see if the slaves are leaking. This seems to be a fairly common occurrence, and a drum filled with brake fluid slosh can really diminish stopping ability.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Mat,

I found that a set of Greenstuff pads made a big difference and I'm told that Mintex ones are even better
Allan ('76 Midget 1500)

This is a common misconception

Braking is simple physiks and that is the same for a 1966 midget and a 2008 BMW

When you brake you try to slow down a mass (midget) by turning forward momentum in to heat (the energy has to go some where)
If you lock up the brakes (and anny midget should be able to do that) that means that the brakes have over come the grip of the tyres.

so then the tyre's are the limiting factor.
And anny one shoud run on good modern compound tyre's.

The only diffrence is the abs which does the neat trick of keaping the weal rolling and not locking up

A good midget should be able to outbrake anny modern car on the normal road (if we forget the abs) because the midget has a verry smal mass
But it will ask a little bit more pedal pressure (but wil give more feel)if not fitted with a servo

The check list!

-make sure the disks are good flat and not to thin.
-fit new (green stuf)pads if needed and bed them in properly.
-check if the calipers are working ok.
-check if every thing is free at the back (handbrake and adjusters)
-fit new shoes and drums if needed.
-adjust them properly.
-adjust the handbrake to!
-change old hoses with new braided ones.
-make sure the MC is in good order.
-FLUSH THE COMPLEET HYDROLYC SYSTEM!!!!!!


If all of the above boxes are checked than you midget should brake perfectly fine for normal street use with the exeptions noted above

If it locks up the wheels without a good deceleration first check your tyres!
Under inflation and (not visible) ageing of the compound will dramaticly reduce grip and thus braking

hmm this was going to be a short reply....
o Könemann

I'm disagreeing with O Koneman.

The difference between a 66 Midget and a 74-79 1500 Midget is that the 1500 Midget is a lot heavier yet it has the same brakes.

Getting the brakes to lock up in a 66 Midget is a lot easier than getting them to lock up in a 1500 Midget.

So the tyres are not the limiting factor rather its the extra weight of the 1500 Midget that is the limiting factor.

You can either lose some weight or increase the braking torque. It's simpler and cheaper to increase braking torque by fitting a bigger disc kit from Peter May Eng.

Yes you can do a lot of other stuff but ultimately a 1500 Midget, because it is heavier will put more heat into the discs (and to a lesser extent the drums) than for a 66 Midget because it weighs more. So like for like you are more likely to get brake fade on a 1500 Midget than a 66 Midget.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

thanks.

span the midget around the yard tonight - brakes seems better - even locked front nearside up - off to MOT next week! I reckon some welding drives side floor is needed - although hope for loads of DIY over the winter (just need to learn!).

Many thnxs
M Andrews

o Könemann, having driven a 2008 BMW and a 1500 midget, I can, without doubt say, the breaking (although mechanically and physically similar) is world apart, let me explain, when I did an emergency stop in the BMW I felt totally in control and safe. The 1500 on the other hand, left a slightly squishy feeling between me and the seat. They are totally disimilar. Pedal feel may be better, but the force needed and the lack of stability systems means the act of breaking is not the same. Our old cars rely on us doing the work, newer cars have computers to give us some help, thereofre making them very different indeed :-)

BC
B Cavagan

As i said the diffrence is made in the abs(esp etc)not in the simple mechanics.

i may have forgot to take the extra weight of the 1500 in to acount
But the 1500 has a diffrent system than a 66 midget the MC is a split one if i'm correct.

But in normal trafic the brakes should be more than fine (yes i have driven several 1500's all braked fine)

If you have every thing sorted but still have problems than your probably driving rather "spirited".
And a bigger brake kit or kad 4pot calipers should fix most of this
o Könemann

I've been driving my 1500 for over 13 years now, and in normal road conditions, I've never thought that it felt under-braked. In fact, on the few occasions that the brakes did feel a bit "off," there was always a reason - either leaks from the rear slave cylinders, or excessive pedal caused by the rears needing adjustment. When the system is set up correctly, the pedal should feel nice and firm, with a positive bite when applied. It takes a bit more welly than a power-assisted setup, but that's to be expected.

By the way, I fitted braided flex lines, and while a lot of guys say that they get a much firmer pedal with the braided hoses, I suspect that if you're replacing tired old hoses you'd notice an improvement whether you went with braided or regular. To get a true comparison, you'd need to replace new rubber hoses with braided and THEN compare. Anything's going to feel better than stretchy old hoses.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

I havnt read the above replys so sorry if its already been said,

but ive just fitted EBC drilled/grooved discs and green stuff pads and the difference is very noticable. I can lock the front with ease if i want.
Im now going to go through the rear brakes and get them upto scratch.
D Tetley

Many thanks for all the replies. I'll get the MOT and then upgrade the brakes. Lots of mentions of Green Pads - so I'll try them out.

Cheers
M Andrews

A lot of people slag the GreenStuff pads because of of the dust they produce. When I got mine they were covered with what I think is bedding in material. Initially there was a lot of dust but once the bedding in stuff was worn off, the dust has been minimal.

Allan
Allan ('76 Midget 1500)

I thought one of Greenstuff pads benefits was being low dust, and therefore kind to alloy rims??

BC
BC

This thread was discussed between 08/08/2008 and 12/08/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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